Barbershop

Today, I went to a new barber. I have fallen in love with the barbershop experience and I can't imagine going to a "stylist" ever again. The process is simple, if you know what you want, and relaxing, if you go to the right place.

You need to know your numbers, and what they mean. I like a 2 on the sides (that's a 1/4 inch) and hand cut on top. Then squared up all around, leaving the sideburns long but squared up.

(More on hair terms at: Crop Shop)

The experience is best if you find an old school barbershop where they are as into class as you are. And the best thing about barbershops? The average cut is $10-$14.

Also remember, if you don't like the cut you don't have to go back, and your hair is short so wait 2 weeks and find someone else, and when you find the barber who does it "just right" keep going back.

(GQ's Style Guy has some tips on finding a barber: GQ Grooming)

(photo from: Walnut, Illinois 1872-1972 Centennial Book: Part 2)

Laundry

Just got back from doing laundry and I thought I should post about the key to laundry. The key is separation. I am anal about separation. Two pink items later and my partner is no longer allowed to separate. I separate everything and then it is ok to launder it.

The main item to separate is whites. White means NO COLOUR! no prints or colour decoration. WHITE. By separating the whites you will keep your whites whiter longer and have a greatly decreased need or desire to bleach, which is harmful to your clothing.

On coloured items you should do a bit of sorting as well. Darks (i.e. black and navy solids) can go with reds and brights. And idealy you will have four loads.

1) whites
2) mediums (khaki and pastels)
3) darks
4) brights

Do this and your clothes will last much longer.

-TSG
(photo and great info from Mary Janes Farm)

Have a question?

If you read TSG on a regular basis don't forget that questions are always welcome. Just e-mail me at TranzStyleGuy@gmail.com

It is ok to be a geek

The only thing I have to talk about today is that it is ok to be a geek. Yes, as I have said before, and I will continue to say, you look your best when you are yourself, and I admit that I have a bit of geek in me. Today I finally got my old laptop fully converted to Linux, and my newer box will soon follow. Now, don't worry, this is not about to become some geeky blog. Just thought I would let you know that I am proud of who I am, and that is ok.

If you are looking for a windows alternative, try Ubuntu. "Linux for Humans" as they say.

Fall is on its way

I work for a company that has a focus on clothing and right now we are in the swing of fall. It is hard to think of fall when the sun just popped out and the trees are still getting their new leaves. But fall it is, and it is a great time to think about your fall wardrobe. If you are the thrift seeker then summer is a great time to hit up the deep discouted places like thrift stores. They are on a demand basis and the demand this weekend is for swim trunks not wool suits. But you are forward thinking, which is great.

The fall will hopefully bring a new season for your style, dare I say classier? Yes men in the US are finally waking up and leaving the grunge behind. Look at this new style by Thom Browne.


You can recreate this look and more by hitting up the thrift store and then finding a tailor, but don't forget to make sure the clothes fit properly, there is never a good excuse for ill fitting clothing.

This is a new one from John Varvatos.

Hat Etiquette

One of the etiquette faux pas I keep making, in my new live as a passing man, is that of hats. What is the modern man to do?

At work I see men who wear baseball caps to work and leave them on indoors, and at causal restaurants you almost always can see a guy or two with a cap on. But I think this is because of the trend toward baseball caps, and not hats. None the less at the times I think are odd someone will tell me to take off my hat indoors.

The most resent experience was at church. I wear an old Stetson fedora, especially when it is raining which it was the day of the hat experience, and I walked over to church and made it in the doors out of the deluge. I was in a hurry to get a seat and on my way to the pews when I was passed by the deacon and asked to remove my hat. It was an even odder situation because once I removed it she thought I was a woman and was all of the sudden ok with me having a hat on in the church. I of course want to do what is proper, and I always take off my hat once I sit down. Any way, I thought I would share some hat etiquette tips for the modern man.

1) Take your hat off in christian churches. If you are of a faith tradition where you are required to wear one out of respect, wear one.
2) Take hats off at business meetings and in most business places.
3) Are you in school? Take your hat off in the classroom. I think it is disrespectful to hide your eyes from your professor.
4) When speaking with people older than you you probably want to take your hat off, they might call you on it.
5) At the dinner table, take it off.
6) At the bar, leave it on if you want to but if you are out to meet people you might want to take it off so they can see your eyes.
7) The rule of tipping to women and taking your hat off in the presence of a woman, is rubbish. Women should not have different rules in this regard. Do what feels respectful and right but don't do it just because she is a woman, that is sexist, I think.

To read more sexist takes on hat etiquette:
Ask Andy
BCVC on Hats (history information too)

(Image of the hat style I have from: Another Time Vintage Apparel)

Shopping on a budget

If you are like TSG you might have a tight budget and not know how to still look stylish, enter TSG's favorite store, Salvation Army. Thrift stores offer great values and are a wonderful place to find clothing of all styles.

Fashion is more about you then the trend. If the clothing fits and you feel good in it, that is what people will notice.

On The Satorialist there is a picture of Derrick Miller, the creative director for Barker Black. Derrick is wearing a suit he got at the Salvation Army for $12.99. This is a great example of the good finds at the thrift store. Barker Black makes expensive fine shoes and ties (with little skulls and crossbones on them) He can clearly purchase a custom suit, but he likes the $12.99. You can do the same. The key is the fit, which you will learn more about by staying in tune with this blog, or doing your own search for the info.

So, go shop. Splurge with $30 at the thrift stores and sport your own style.

Photo of Derrick Miller from The Satorialist. Scott Schuman took the photo and it belongs to him. Go to his blog!

Yes, you can wear shorts...

...but, then need to be appropriate for the occasion. Even on the runways, shorts are in.



In this outfit by Thom Browne the shorts work partly because the entire outfit is dressy. Try on some shorts, and see how it works for you. It takes a special guy to sport the shorts, that is without the t-shirt on the weekend, you just might be that guy.

The article that changed my life, was in GQ in February 2007. See I think my shirts were always just slightly off, too big or too small. This article showed me how to find the right shirt, and that it could be found off-the-rack (that is not custom made). Shopping at thrift stores is more than fine, TSG loves a good thrift store, but the shirt needs to fit.

As a tranz guy, I needed a fit that made me look male, and take the focus off of my hips. This article helped. Check it out now. Good Fit Bad Fit

16 Rules for Success

I found these 16 tips on Retired at 21. Dean Hunt found them on Bob Parsons.com (the guy who founded GoDaddy.com) Anyway, I think they are great and worth the read. I will try to practice these for the next month, at least.

1. Get and stay out of your comfort zone. I believe that not much happens of any significance when we’re in our comfort zone. I hear people say, “But I’m concerned about security.” My response to that is simple: “Security is for cadavers.”
2. Never give up. Almost nothing works the first time it’s attempted. Just because what you’re doing does not seem to be working, doesn’t mean it won’t work. It just means that it might not work the way you’re doing it. If it was easy, everyone would be doing it, and you wouldn’t have an opportunity.
3. When you’re ready to quit, you’re closer than you think. There’s an old Chinese saying that I just love, and I believe it is so true. It goes like this: “The temptation to quit will be greatest just before you are about to succeed.”
4. With regard to whatever worries you, not only accept the worst thing that could happen, but make it a point to quantify what the worst thing could be. Very seldom will the worst consequence be anywhere near as bad as a cloud of “undefined consequences.” My father would tell me early on, when I was struggling and losing my shirt trying to get Parsons Technology going, “Well, Robert, if it doesn’t work, they can’t eat you.”
5. Focus on what you want to have happen. Remember that old saying, “As you think, so shall you be.”
6. Take things a day at a time. No matter how difficult your situation is, you can get through it if you don’t look too far into the future, and focus on the present moment. You can get through anything one day at a time.
7. Always be moving forward. Never stop investing. Never stop improving. Never stop doing something new. The moment you stop improving your organization, it starts to die. Make it your goal to be better each and every day, in some small way. Remember the Japanese concept of Kaizen. Small daily improvements eventually result in huge advantages.
8. Be quick to decide. Remember what the Union Civil War general, Tecumseh Sherman said: “A good plan violently executed today is far and away better than a perfect plan tomorrow.”
9. Measure everything of significance. I swear this is true. Anything that is measured and watched, improves.
10. Anything that is not managed will deteriorate. If you want to uncover problems you don’t know about, take a few moments and look closely at the areas you haven’t examined for a while. I guarantee you problems will be there.
11. Pay attention to your competitors, but pay more attention to what you’re doing. When you look at your competitors, remember that everything looks perfect at a distance. Even the planet Earth, if you get far enough into space, looks like a peaceful place.
12. Never let anybody push you around. In our society, with our laws and even playing field, you have just as much right to what you’re doing as anyone else, provided that what you’re doing is legal.
13. Never expect life to be fair. Life isn’t fair. You make your own breaks. You’ll be doing good if the only meaning fair has to you, is something that you pay when you get on a bus (i.e., fare).
14. Solve your own problems. You’ll find that by coming up with your own solutions, you’ll develop a competitive edge. Masura Ibuka, the co-founder of SONY, said it best: “You never succeed in technology, business, or anything by following the others.” There’s also an old Asian saying that I remind myself of frequently. It goes like this: “A wise man keeps his own counsel.”
15. Don’t take yourself too seriously. Lighten up. Often, at least half of what we accomplish is due to luck. None of us are in control as much as we like to think we are.
16. There’s always a reason to smile. Find it. After all, you’re really lucky just to be alive. Life is short. More and more, I agree with my little brother. He always reminds me: “We’re not here for a long time; we’re here for a good time.”

The Key to Style

When I was a kid I went to cotillion, my parents wanted me to be a nice lady, I hated it. But I learned something, in fact only one thing. Mr. Benjamin, that was the guy who lead the cotillion, said over and over one phrase. He said, "Dress for the occasion."

He was right. It does not matter where you work, or with whom you spend most of your time. You can be a person of style if you dress for the occasion.

Don't forget this, I know I won't.

Tie your own tie

OK, a simple tip guys. Learn how to tie your tie. Learn a couple different styles, and know which one suits your body type. Also don't forget the two style rules of ties.
- ALWAYS have a dimple
- Your tie should hit just at/ever so slightly above your belt

Windsor Knot
Half Windsor Knot
Four-in-Hand
Bow Tie (NO clip ons here)

My favorite tie store is Beau Ties of Vermont, they also sell neck ties.

-TSG

Tip 3

Read Forbes Summer Grooming Guide. Great information about men's grooming. I know some of us trans guys are really into our new hair, but be careful you still need to look clean. There are tons of great products which are not as expensive as the ones they suggest, and remember one of the best things you can do is head over to the barbershop, typically $10-$14 a cut.

-TSG

Style Tip 2

Collar stays. Don't forget to take them out before you wash your favorite shirt! Yes, collar stays are wonderful little things that go in your collar to make the points pointy (for collar types other than button-downs, which I will discuss some other time) but these wonderful tools don't wash well, so take them out - wash shirt - put them back in before you ware your shirt again.

For a cool little organizer for your stays, look at this... The Stay Clip. I found it when researching this style tip!

- TSG

First Tip to being a guy with style

Get a subscription to GQ. I personally think Esquire is full of sexist remarks. But GQ is typically pretty respectful and they honestly have great style tips. Getting a subscription will save you tons of money (only $12 for a year) compared to the newsstand price and TSG thinks the price is well worth it.

TSG's only negative thoughts are the general homophobic tones which run through most men's magazines. But hey, if you are a gay guy, just look at the pictures, the DG ads are always great and usually in the first couple pages.

With GQ you will see the latest fashions and best of all tips on how clothing is supposed to fit. If you are like me, you might have thought that a medium shirt is a medium shirt. But there is much more than that.

Now just don't get TSG confused with "Style Guy" TSG is much better looking.

-TSG

Welcome to TSG

TSG is here for people of all genders, but especially tranz people.

I decided to start this blog after viewing the recent Newsweek article about transgender people. I was looking through the photo album that was linked to the article and realized that I might be able to help. Additionally a friend of mine was telling me one day, before he started T, that his friends at the local diner were telling him that once he started T he needed to start dressing "more like a guy" in flannel and big t-shirts. He said he was concerned because he had never been a slob and was not about to start.

I am proud of being a tranz guy and I do not want to erase our transness to mold into societal norms, however I do want to help people feel better about themselves and look good in general.

This site is for you friends. I will start offering up tips, daily at the least on what you can do to improve your style. If you have any questions for TSG please feel free to e-mail me at......

TSG